Surprise! The extra virgin Italian olive oil that you are using to improve your health* is probably not even olive oil. And it’s certainly not virgin. Guess what it is:
- a) promiscuous olive oil (with no standards)
- b) anti-freeze mixed with dog pee
- c) inferior grade oils from North Africa (Tunisia and Morocco)
- d) industrial seed oils with chemical solvents and pesticides that occasionally have Mafia blood on them
Answer: C and mostly D. Olive oil fraud has been around since Roman times. In fact, many emperors amassed wealth from the olive oil trade and thus came to power—the equivalent of today’s oil sheikhs. More recently, Southern Italy has become the epicenter of the the thriving olive oil scam. The Agramafia controls every step of the process—from harvesting to hiring their own workers, setting the prices, managing transportation, and putting their products on supermarket shelves—and they have infiltrated the entire food chain from the farm to your mouth.
They use cheap industrial oils like sunflower and canola and the waste products from olive oil production which are processed with chemical solvents and are full of additives and pesticides, as well as inferior oils from other countries. They deodorize them with additional chemicals to hide the cheap oil taste and add chlorophyll for color. The Agromafia manipulates other foods as well—wine, bread, butter, tomato sauce. They have tried to rip-off Italian shoppers with mozzarella whitened with detergent and rotten seafood deodorized with citric acid. “Food crime” (yes, that’s a thing!) is apparently a $16 billion yearly enterprise.
A member of the Italian Elite Food Police revealed in an interview that he defied the mob by convincing 200 farmers to eliminate Mafia middle men and to sell their oil directly to distributors. “On the day I started the consortium, they burned my car, they burned down part of my home and I was inside with my wife and my daughter…it was a message to stay quiet.”
But back to you: Now you know that you are paying for a phony product. Most consumers believe that real olive oil is cheap and are used to paying less than they should. They’ve also gotten accustomed to the compromised taste. But not you. You care, you want the health benefits *, and you want quality food for yourself and your family. So pause before you buy. And take note of some recent offenders:
- Antica Badia
- Bertolli
- Carapelli
- Colavita
- Coricelli
- Filippo Berio
- Mazzola
- Mezzetta
- Newman’s Own
- Pompeian
- Primadonna
- Safeway
- Star
- Sasso
- Whole Foods
Yeah, I know: Whole Foods burned your eyes. Mine, too. Turns out that even they have limited power over the Mafia. These brands are suspect because their products have been tainted. But it doesn’t mean that every product in each brand is bad. In fact, one of Bertolli‘s products won an award this year, but not the one in your supermarket in the clear bottle. That one sucks.
Here’s what you can do:
- Beware of anything that is Made in Italy. Also be informed that the fraud has spread to Spain, Greece, Brazil and elsewhere.
- Know what to look for: the healthiest olive oil is extra virgin, first cold pressed, unfiltered, and housed in a dark bottle. The grossest olive oil is pomace which is solid residue left over from traditional olive oil production and treated with chemical solvents like hexane at extremely high temperatures.
- Buy a local brand at the supermarket. US olive oil is subject to more stringent standards. However, the FDA does nothing to precent illegally adulterated foods from being imported and sold unless it’s related to a disease outbreak. Check for seals of approval: a D.O.P seal on European oils and a California Olive Oil Council seal on US oils.
- Buy at a farmer’s market.
- Tour a mill where fresh olives are turned into oil. It’s easier to trust what you can see with your own eyes!
- Visit an olive oil specialty store where you can taste test different varieties.
- Whenever you go out to eat ask what kind of oil they use. Feel free to inquire about the brand. There’s no shame! The only way to improve what restaurants do is to educate them (starting with the waitstaff) and to make it known that you care. Beware of a very low-grade version of olive oil called pomace oil.
Also, do some research. What is extra virgin olive oil? Who wants to know the difference between extra virgin, fine virgin, and premium extra virgin olive oil? This site explains it. By law, it cannot have undergone chemical manipulation. Which brands passed the test in the California University Study? Which ones are recommended by the North American Olive Oil Association? This site recommends quality oils at good prices and gives helpful descriptions and commentary. Want to know the international winners for 2017? This is a super cool resource for connaisseurs but the list goes on forever and you might wear out your finger while scrolling. Suggestion: Look for American brands. You can actually search with ten different filters in case you want one that is organic, robust, American, from Arbequina olives, and a gold winner. Maybe you’ll get lucky and find something local.
And to learn more about the industry and the scam, check out Olive Oil Times—a whole online publication devoted to this grandiose oil. Here’s a good piece of investigative journalism by 60 Minutes. For those with more time on their hands, just type olive oil hoax or olive oil fraud into your search engine and enjoy hours of fun.
For those of you who don’t like to do research, you are lucky because I have done it for you. I’ve reached out to my most culinarily aware, nutrition-conscious friends, chefs, and holistic health providers to find out what they use.
And here’s the GFF-approved Top 10:
- Rallis Olive Oil
- Bragg
- Nunez de Prado
- Sola Stella I’m calling this one out because of its high polyphenol count—the telltale sign is that it’s a bit spicy. The polyphenols protect the integrity of the oil at higher temps.
- Whole Foods 365 Brand Extra Virgin
- Napa Valley Naturals
- Bariani
- Texas Olive Ranch
- California Olive Ranch
- Texas Hill Country
Buon Appetito!
Special note: if you or your kids are sensitive to seeds, you should be even more concerned about your “olive oil”, because it likely contains degraded seed oil.
*In case you didn’t know: A number of well-documented studies on populations in Spain and other Mediterranean countries have demonstrated that populations from those regions, where fresh olive oil is a part of the daily diet, live longer and have lower risk of heart disease, high blood pressure, and stroke. Olive oil is rich in antioxidants, oleocanthal, squalene, and lignans. Olive oil is known to promote healthy blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It supports the heart, bones, and joints.* It also provides support to the immune system and promotes healthy weight loss.
Frankie’s 457 Brooklyn ny biancollila
Extra virgin olive oil fine cold pressed
Thanks for the local tip. You should always try local varieties so thanks for recommending this one to my readers.
How can you say Bertolli failed when it’s on the NAOOA’s approved list?
Hi Holly,
Thanks for your question. Many brands market a range of oils. Bertolli’s olive oil has been tested and found to contain contamination—this is likely the product in the clear plastic bottle found at supermarkets everywhere. At the same time, they may also have a higher end product that is truly extra virgin olive oil, and that one would be found at higher end grocers. It’s hard to keep track because companies keep modifying their products due to customer demand and also public outcry. Check out the UC Davis study:
http://oliveoil.ucdavis.edu/research/files/report041211finalreduced.pdf
-your GFF
What about IRINI, product of Greece?
How about oro del desierto brand
Hi Karen,
This looks to be the real thing. It has won over 20 awards. There is interesting information on their website: “Our extra virgin olive oil, Oro del Desierto has a maximum acidity of 0.1%, the lowest on the market. Among the chemical characteristics, the best known is acidity. Contrary to popular belief, acidity has nothing to do with the taste of the oil, it is a strictly chemical parameter that is measured in degrees or % and indicates the content of free fatty acids. A low acidity indicates freshness and good quality in an extra virgin olive oil.” This brand is certified by CAAE which is a European organization that regulates and certifies organic products grown on more than 1,000,000 hectares in Europe.
Where’d you find it?
Cheers,
-your GFF
I just found it on amazon ☺️
Hi Nina. I just finished reading this article, as my wife and I are concerned about purchasing fake olive oils. This came about because I brought home a big bottle of Kirkland brand olive oil (a Costco brand, which, at least, we HOPE is olive oil!), and my wife was concerned that this bottle of ‘15%’ extra virgin is probably not what I had assumed.
So after reading your article, I got to thinking maybe I will make a video about olive oil, with a list of tips to tell if it’s likely real or fake. It seems your list is a good list to go with. So if I were to make a video list, and credit your website as the source, would that be okay with you? Example: “Here’s a great list of tips from goodfoodfighter.com on how to tell if your olive oil is real or fake.”
Hi Al,
Thanks for reaching out to me. Costco generally caters to a more discriminating crowd and is probably better than most big chains. For example they are trying to support organic farmers. However, all food has to earn my trust and crappy products make their way into the best stores, so you never know. Always be skeptical, do you research, and ask lots of questions. I would be delighted if you referenced my blog post.
All the best to you and let me know if I can support you in any way.
-your GFF
Olive oil is wonderfull, but like in everything in life you have to be carefull
Thera are brands with excellent controls :
https://metrocebu.news/2018/02/worlds-no-1-bertolli-olive-oil-recognized-for-its-award-winning-blends/
But also people cheating
https://www.oliveoiltimes.com/olive-oil-business/major-spanish-cooperative-under-fire-for-importing-and-exporting-practices/63778
Don´t lose the chance to use this wonderfull product
Hi Luca,
Thanks for sharing your research. The first link, however, is a press release by Bertolli itself, so not quite as trustworthy as a third party review. Be skeptical of everything you read online, and try to ascertain who the reviewers/organizations are and if they appear to be objective. That said, it is possible that Bertolli has different tiers of quality and that their best product is a good one. I would cross-check with some of the more independent sources though.
Good luck and happy eating!
-your GFF
Hi, I just came from Europe, and eating in a little Italian cafe, there was a bottle of DeCecco evoo and balsamic vinegar on each table. So obviously not pricey, but it tasted really good on my salad and I was going to buy some back home. Was I fooled?
Hi Diane,
I cannot ascertain whether the Dececco on your table in Europe is the same Dececco that’s available in the U.S. There are often different versions of products for the European and American markets (America always gets the inferior one because of lower standards/regulations/consumer knowledge). It’s a good idea to check for the harvest date—the best, most authentic brands will stamp one on the bottle. And you might consider buying American brands, because there are some really good ones (check this thread because for my list of some) and they are subjected to more stringent laws than European imports.
Thanks for checking out the blog. I hope you’ll read more good stuff 😉
-your GFF
15 or 20 years ago I read somewhere that extra virgin olive oil is instantly ruined the minute you heat it up, so you should use pomace oil if you’re going to heat it (to stir-fry for instance). Reading this article shocked me to my toes! I only buy California Olive Ranch these days. It’s worth the extra money.
Hi Scott,
Thanks for reaching out with your question. It’s unfortunate that there’s as much misinformation as information on the web! Here’s a very good article explaining why extra virgin olive oil is king and is NOT ruined by cooking.
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/is-olive-oil-good-for-cooking
Use lots of it!
-your GFF
I recently became aware space of this problem. Now I am totally baffled. Can you recommend some good products of olive oil that is the real deal? I read your brands that were out there and I will search for them but I really am concerned if you can help me find other brands that I can find locally thank you
Hi Paula,
Do you mean local to Austin, or American brands?
My two favorite local brands are Terra Verde which I buy at the Mueller Farmers’ Market, and Texas Olive Ranch, available in many groceries. I also like California Olive Ranch and Organic and McEvoy Ranch. A great olive oil that’s widely available is Bragg, a trusted brand which makes a lot of other high quality products, like apple cider vinegar.
Let me know if this answers your question!
-your GFF
Hi Nina.. I purchased a bottle of “Vezorla,” Picual Private Collection Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Spain) at a Market in Alberta, Canada. It is in a tall slim dark bottle & has I believe a DOP Seal & year havested, packaged, Lot # & Expiry Date. I haven’t found this brand through the internet, so wondered if you would be able to find out about it. I learned that many cooking oils have MSG in them & I have a high sensitivity to MSG & have to be extremely careful what I eat.
Thank you so much for all the valuable information that you have put out here, you are awesome!!
Hi Kathleen,
This appears to be the real deal. Scroll down to the bottom of this article to learn about the founder and owner of the company, “Vezorla”.
https://calgaryherald.com/life/swerve/the-game-of-life-six-calgarians-chose-to-reinvent-themselves-after-losing-their-jobs
What you want it small family-owned groves where olives are always cold pressed, the traditional way. You can also buy it online.
https://www.vezorla.com/
You have nothing to worry about with MSG if you buy authentic cold-pressed olive oil. Beware of all vegetable oils, though!
Happy Eating,
-your GFF
Thank you for this very informative article. I was able to find California Olive Ranch at my local grocer. I have always wanted to be sure i was getting the real deal. I love the taste of this oil. Thank you!!
Hi John,
Thanks so much for letting me know!
Eat in good health,
-your GFF
I am Italian and I work in the food industry. The most important point you have not highlited is that many products are not original. The “italian sounding” is a very dangerous phenomenon for all the true and reliable italian companies. Many markets were destroyed with fake products like “parmesan”. Many of the brend you listed, in italy does not exist. I can ensure that our standards in food safety are very strict and hard to respect. We have an èlite department of army (the only case in the world) that investigate food frauds and compliance with quality standards. I can give the advice to buy from real italian companies to be sure you are doing well for your health and safety.
Hi Gerry,
Thank you for your comment It sounds like you are saying that imposters are bottling olive oil under Italian-sounding names that do not originate in Italy. I’ve read that there is definitely a lot of fraud around olive oil and the best practice is to buy local or from an estate where the olives are grown, harvested, pressed, and the oil bottled at a single source with a date stamped. Unfortunately, American controls on imported oil are lax so it’s hard for American consumers to know what they’re getting. Luckily, there are independent third parties who are testing and evaluating oils for impurities and quality and making their research available to consumers. Which Italian companies do you recommend?
-your GFF
Hi! I’m confused about the California Olive Ranch brand. Says they get the olives from several different countries. Is this still a safe brand to be feeding my family?
Hi Star,
I’m glad you read the label carefully! It turns out that California Olive Ranch is now sourcing oils from other countries, which means that it’s not clear what exactly you’re getting. You don’t know the harvest or bottling date because it’s inconsistent from bottle to bottle and batch to batch and based on availability. Generally it’s a good idea to keep bottles in cupboards away from light and heat and to use within a year. But brands that are sourcing from all over the place are going to have more trouble with quality control. So I would stick to olive oil from a single estate or location that stamps their bottling date (best scenario) or at least their harvest date. The variety that you purchased isn’t necessarily sub-par, it’s just that you can’t really verify. Best to stick with a California grown and bottled version within their brand.
hope this helps!
-your GFF
It is very difficult to find informative labelling on olive oil.
Today, I received the following answer from the California olive oil company, Sutter Buttes:
“This item is part of our Everyday Gourmet line and it looks like you purchased it in Canada. We do not make any claims on the origin of the olive oil for this brand. It is not the same as what’s sold on our website. Homesense in Canada purchases our ‘EG’ brand for their stores.
That being said, we source from California and Chile for this line. Both make excellent olive oils and we are always sure our internal standards are met.”
So, it seems that Sutter Buttes, with its grown in California olive oil online presence, also uses it name for an in-house brand for HomeSense and Winners stores. They may indeed “source from California and Chile” but this doesn’t rule out that they source from Tunisia or elsewhere, too.
In other words, even after DIRECTLY contacting the Californian company, they still cannot tell me what is in what they have packaged and sold and sits in my pantry!
I may just go back to good old butter.
hi Sandi,
Thank you for sharing this information with our readers. I believe that California Olive Ranch still sells an olive oil made from locally sourced olives, but much of their product line is oil from elsewhere, and that elsewhere is hard to determine. What is equally hard to determine is when the olives were harvested and when the oil was bottled. This makes a huge difference, as real olive oil degrades over time, especially if it is exposed to light or heat. I personally do not buy this brand anymore because there are so many others that offer pure olive oil from a single, highly controlled source. I am about to update my article with new information that I have learned from going to so many food shows…
-your GFF
Hi.
Can you please tell me what the acidity rating for whole food EVOO is
Thanks
Hi Sam,
Every olive oil has a different acidity rating. Sometimes it’s on their website, but you can always ask the farm/manufacturer for this information. Was there a particular brand you were interested in?
Thanks for weighing in,
-your GFF